Coastal Erosion Simulator: Wave Energy, Cliff Retreat & Shore Platform Evolution

simulator intermediate ~11 min
Loading simulation...
R = 0.15 m/yr — moderate wave energy on 20 MPa rock

With 2m significant wave height, 8s period, 20 MPa rock strength, and 30m cliff height, the cliff retreats at approximately 0.15 m/yr, creating a wave-cut platform that widens over centuries.

Formula

P = ρg²H²T / (32π)  [Wave energy flux, W/m]
R = k·P / (σ·h_c)  [Cliff retreat rate, m/yr]
W_platform = R·t  [Platform width over time]

Wave Attack & Cliff Undercutting

Coastal cliffs retreat primarily through wave action at their base. Breaking waves exert enormous pressures — up to 100 kPa during storms — that exploit joints, bedding planes, and weaknesses in the rock. Hydraulic action forces water into cracks at high pressure, abrasion grinds the rock with wave-carried sediment, and repeated wetting-drying and salt crystallization weaken the rock matrix. The result is an erosional notch that undercuts the cliff face.

Cliff Collapse & Mass Failure

Once the notch extends deep enough, the overhanging cliff becomes gravitationally unstable and collapses. The failure mode depends on rock structure: toppling in horizontally bedded rocks, planar sliding along inclined joints, and rotational slumping in weak clays. The collapsed debris temporarily protects the cliff base from wave attack, creating cycles of rapid erosion (notch growth) and quiescence (debris protection) that make retreat highly episodic.

Shore Platform Development

As the cliff retreats, it leaves behind a wave-cut platform — a gently seaward-sloping rock surface. The platform acts as a natural breakwater: as it widens, waves must travel further across shallow water, losing energy to friction and breaking. This negative feedback means retreat rate decreases over time as the platform grows, establishing a self-regulating equilibrium between wave energy delivery and cliff resistance.

Climate Change & Accelerating Retreat

Rising sea levels threaten to reset the equilibrium by drowning shore platforms, allowing larger waves to reach cliff bases. Combined with more intense storms and changing precipitation patterns that affect cliff stability, coastal erosion rates are projected to accelerate significantly. Managing this risk requires understanding the coupled dynamics of waves, cliffs, platforms, and sediment transport that this simulation explores.

FAQ

How does wave erosion work on cliffs?

Waves erode cliffs through four mechanisms: hydraulic action (water pressure in cracks), abrasion (waves hurl sediment against rock), corrosion (chemical dissolution), and attrition (breakdown of eroded material). Wave energy concentrates at the cliff base, undercutting it and creating a notch. When the overhang exceeds rock strength, the cliff collapses, retreating landward.

How fast do cliffs retreat?

Cliff retreat rates vary enormously with rock type: hard granite retreats at <1 mm/yr, chalk at 0.1-1 m/yr, and weak glacial till at 1-10 m/yr. The fastest documented rates exceed 10 m/yr in extremely weak materials. Climate change is expected to accelerate retreat through sea level rise and intensified storms.

What is a wave-cut platform?

As a cliff retreats, it leaves behind a gently sloping rock surface — the wave-cut (shore) platform. The platform widens over time, causing waves to break further from the cliff and dissipate energy crossing the platform. This negative feedback eventually slows retreat, creating a self-regulating system.

How does sea level rise affect coastal erosion?

Sea level rise drowns protective shore platforms, allows waves to reach cliff bases with more energy, and shifts the erosion zone upward. The Bruun Rule predicts shoreline retreat of 50-100 times the sea level rise for sandy coasts. For cliffs, the relationship is more complex but sea level rise generally accelerates retreat.

Sources

Embed

<iframe src="https://homo-deus.com/lab/geomorphology/coastal-erosion/embed" width="100%" height="400" frameborder="0"></iframe>
View source on GitHub